Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
